Digital Wanderer

We live as long as we fly

Iceland — 3, day 1 — the road to Þingvellir

Before long, we wrapped up our errands in the capital and headed exactly where we had planned to go all along – Thingvellir National Park.

Iceland Cycling - day 1


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A highway with cars stretches into the distance between green hills and buildings under an overcast sky, with mountains on the horizon partially hidden by clouds. In the foreground on the right — ground with low vegetation, a concrete path, and two gray boxes.

The concrete surface hides a water pipe underneath

In the photo is one of those pleasant little things that always bring joy while traveling, and give us the spirit of discoverers and adventurers. To avoid slogging down the boring Highway 1, which rings the island along its edge, we found ourselves amusements like bike paths, and here we were straight-up riding on top of a water pipe. At least, that's what a heavily tattooed cyclist with a little daughter told us.

The weather, as you can see, is overcast, and this plague followed us constantly. An Icelandic saying goes: "If you don't like the weather, wait five minutes, and it will get even worse." As the dude from the previous part said (can't vouch for the exact quote):

“Iceland has three national treasures: cold water, hot water, and the weather.”

Cold water — because in almost any part of the island there is plenty of the purest drinking water; hot water — meaning, of course, the geothermal power stations. But as for the weather — that's malicious sarcasm. True, you could also take it to mean that with weather like this, immigrants aren't exactly itching to flood the country, and Icelanders get to live quietly in their simple and dignified world.

A row of birches with light bark and lush green foliage is lined up along a grassy slope on the left, opposite a winding asphalt path leading into the distance, with a street lamp on the shoulder to the right.

A rare sight — trees and grass, and such lush and thick ones at that

Rumor has it that when the first inhabitants arrived in Iceland around 700-800 AD, it was entirely covered in forests. Traditionally, the year of the country's settlement is considered to be 874, when Scandinavian settlers showed up in Iceland. But before them, Irish monks had been hanging out on the island for a while, who mysteriously vanished with the arrival of the harsh Vikings. Whether they bailed out of fear or got slaughtered — who can tell now.

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A horsie

While riding along the pipe, we spotted a rusty tourist sign and a map. For some reason, I decided it was a waterfall, and naturally, we had to go see it — seeing as we supposedly had the time. But my brain glitched out — the name ended in “fell”, which looks like “fall”. I forgot that in Icelandic (which, by the way, is essentially Old Norse), waterfall is “foss”, and “fell” is simply “mountain”. And so we had our first ride on a dirt road, and uphill at that. It was a bummer, but despite the sign, you couldn't really ride all the way to the mountain itself — we had to walk. There was almost nothing remarkable inside — just a small valley covered in grass. On the flip side, there were little birds running (specifically running, not flying) on the grass, making a funny “beep” sound, like some kind of car alarm. That was nice at least — after all, for the sake of these birds we had to climb from 50 meters to 200, and then back down. You can see it here, a little peak in the elevation gain that is completely out of place: https://www.gpsies.com/map.do?fileId=hoxudkhefppeewmh

Two shaggy brown Icelandic horses stand in a grassy field against a backdrop of gently rolling hills. On the right, a person's hand reaches out to one of the horses.

And these horsies were eating our pricey bread

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As soon as I rode off, they started kicking each other, the hooligans

A group of riders in bright orange clothing rides horseback single file along a green hillside under an overcast sky. In the foreground is a small wooden bridge leading to a trail.

Tourists on horsies

There are lots of horses in Iceland; you periodically see whole herds. Why, is not quite clear, except maybe to give tourists rides. True, word is they are still used in agriculture, but that's impossible to believe, considering the off-the-charts standard of living we saw everywhere in Iceland. It's interesting with the horsies, by the way: it's forbidden to import them into Iceland so as not to infect the locals with new diseases, and those that have been taken out are never allowed back in. The local breed descended from ponies, but Icelanders get offended if you call the horses that — they are Viking horses after all, strong and hardy, with a Nordic character.

A narrow stream of clear water, dotted with many dark stones, flows through a green landscape, forming small rapids and riffles.

In the foreground is a large pile of porous volcanic rocks, topped with a small cairn of stacked stones. Behind it on the ground with sparse grass, the outline of a heart is laid out from small dark pebbles.

This is called a Cairn; there is no such word in Russian, so they just dumbly say “pyramid of stones”. The purpose of such a structure can vary: to mark a trail, say, or to greet the gods, or whatever. In the modern world, it's usually just a nod to tradition, an amusement for travelers. I, of course, forced the punk to stack one — after all, he is constantly guilting everyone that nobody wants to participate in anything. There's not much joy in doing this in the drizzling rain in the cold after 30 km on the road, but he forced himself to do it anyway, all credit to him!

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No, this one isn't his handiwork

A wet asphalt road leads into the distance, surrounded by low vegetation on both sides. The sky is covered with overhanging gray clouds that hide the peaks of distant mountains.

Even in this kind of weather, the gloomy beauty of Iceland cuts right to the heart

A man in a bicycle helmet and jacket stands by a wet road next to a bicycle and a large stone that says "Thingvellir National Park". Behind him is an overcast landscape with misty mountains and a bus in the distance.

And so we reached our goal for that day — Thingvellir Park

Two touring bicycles with luggage are parked in front of an information board for Thingvellir National Park and Lake Thingvallavatn. In the background is a vast treeless landscape with low vegetation and stone cairns under an overcast sky.